The summer edition of Rome Fashion Week successfully wrapped up on July 15th and even if I followed online I can tell you it was the best one ever. Finally the event is integrated within the city on a massive scale and not taking place behind closed doors and hidden away from public spaces. Infact the Who is On Next final was held at the Piazza del Campidoglio; the hill that looks upon the Imperial Forum and the location of Rome administration.
The calendar also was rich, diverse and complete. It included 23 RTW catwalks, 107 brands, at the Showcase event, Fashion Schools of the region end of the year shows and a few made to measure, haute couture brands too. The main hub was the former military barracks Guido Reni District (north of Rome) just opposite the Zaha Hadid Rome's contemporary art museum, MAXXI, that hosted some event as well. Last but not least every event was streamed online and truly accessible to everybody. I will give space to all of the above in the next few days as I'm going to highlight this year Who is On next winners.
The jury selected two brands that produce and are based in Italy, however they show a strong Asian influence in their designs and styles. The winner in the womenswear category is Setchu by Satoshi Kuwata and Mokoo by Bum-MoKoo for menswear. The first brand name and designer are Japanese, the second one South Korean. Both brand receive a cash prize, visibility on Vogue Italia and the chance to show in Milan in September. Competition was fierce however the two brands already have such a defined and strong aesthetic that they could show on their own but above all stand out on the international fashion market. let's look at them in detail
Setchu litterally means 'compromise between Japan and the West' and the looks on the catwalk really reflect this mission. The designer also focuses on functional clothes that are sophisticated but simple. Simple, clean lines, neutral colour with the occasional flash of blue or red. A nod to the gender fluid fashion without shouting about it or pushing the boundaries in a provocative way.
Mokoo by the South Korean designer Bum Mokoo is centred on functionality as well however the inspiration and the purpose of the garments are different from the womenswear winner.
The materials are created and made to last, new and old archive fabric is used and mixed with pure silver and metal in futuristic textures. A focus of the brand is the silhouette of the body and how it changes according to light and movement. That's why small LEDs are woven withing the fabric so to reflect and shine both when worn and also when hanging in a dark wardrobe.
This is just an appetizer of all the amazing fashion that was showcased in Rome this summer. I will be posting more in the next few weeks to give you a better picture of what Rome Fashion Week is all about and how it is contributing to support emerging designers and link them up with the bigger fashion system in Florence and Milan.
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